"I'm very protective of them," she said of Walsh and Uniacke, but also of the fish they net for her.The commercial salmon fishery opens from mid-May. Weeks before, Barnes feels an intuitive call to the salmon – a trigger for her own migration from the smokery to the Blackwater. "I get a frisson. I can smell 'em; they're coming," she said Every salmon that arrives to Barnes' door is precious. "I touch every single fish. It's a very physical relationship we have. I have a reverence for them, and I treat these beautiful creatures with the greatest of respect when they're under my hands."